COMPREHENSIVE HOME INSPECTION
AND MUCH MORE!!!
COMPREHENSIVE HOME INSPECTION
AND MUCH MORE!!!
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Articles of Interest From Home Inspectors Around the USA
Grading and Drainage
by Ronald W. Gower of Craftsman
Home Inspection
03-21-2005
Grading that can collect and hold water near and next to a foundation wall can cause basement flooding. Flooding into a finished basement area can lead to mold growth within 48 hours. Long term water leakage can cause wood rot to wall framing members and can damage the foundation. Stored items can become damaged after a flood into a basement.
I find grading problems on almost every home that I inspect. Most flooding will occur in the spring when the ground begins to thaw and spring rain arrives. The grade is just like a roof on a house. A grade that pitches towards a home can direct water to the home. This can be critical during the winter when the ground is frozen and snow covered. A heavy rain can quickly cause flooding next to a foundation wall and then leak into the basement. Heavy rain can occur any time during the year.
Question the owner about any past flooding into the home. Check your disclosure statement if you have a disclosure law in your state. Flooding of a basement can be one of the worst surprises a new home owner encounters. I have seen a home that was flooding on the day of the home inspection and the owner said they never had water during the 10 years that they lived there. This is possible. Every 6-8-10 years can be very wet. I saw the 10th wettest year in my area. Any possible evidence of past flooding is important to determine before you buy the home so that you can make an informed decision on purchase or negotiation with the seller.
Ideas to reduce basement water leakage:
To sum it up: A basement is a hole in the ground. Do not make it easy for water to fill the hole.
Causes of Sill Damage
by Ronald W. Gower of Craftsman
Home Inspection
03-21-2005
Termites often enter wood sill areas in a home at masonry exterior steps/slabs. Termites will eat wood members often causing structural failure and expensive repair costs. An inexperienced home inspector will sometimes miss termite evidence/damage. This can lead to unexpected bills after a closing. Make sure your home inspector is experienced in termite pest control. The best inspector is a person that is actually working in the termite business. If the inspector is also completing a building inspection he/she should not violate ASHI standards in accepting any pest control work as a result of a paid termite inspection coupled with a building inspection. The buyer needs to be assured that the home inspector is not completing work with a built in conflict of interest. Avoid any conflict of interest.
I have been in the termite control business for 27 years. I have treated many concrete/masonry steps and slabs to control termites. A step or a slab is very much like a pile of dirt in contact with your home. This pile of dirt will create an avenue where termites can sneak into a home and start munching on wood members. I have seen a lot of structural damage caused by termites. A tell tale sign is to look for compression of a sill member. A wood sill member is attached to the foundation. If the sill has weight on it the sill will compress like a wet sponge. The settlement is caused by the termites eating the interior of the wood and leaving holes and gaps that can collapse the sill to the consistency of cardboard. Steps and slabs are installed after the main foundation is poured and the grade backfilled. This leaves a gap just big enough for termites to enter the house between the steps and slabs. Termites are smart. They would rather sneak into your house than just build a termite tunnel up the side of the foundation. They can build an exterior tunnel but they have been to school. Termites are actually building engineers. They make their own concrete which is the tunneling material. So for example an inspector must be very careful in any sill areas in the basement adjacent to exterior steps and slabs. Porches built on slabs are common entry points of termites.
Wood rot in sills adjacent to steps and slabs is very common also. Builders will often omit metal flashing on the sill/wall/sheathing surface before the steps or slabs are poured. Some material such are “Ice and Water Shield” can sometimes be used. Years ago asphalt paper was allowed but the paper can quickly deteriorate exposing sills to water. Rotting sills is often the result after years of water leakage into wood members. In many cases it is impossible to determine if there is proper flashing. I will often look under the siding with my mirror to determine if there is some evidence of flashing. Water stains and rot can often be visible in the basement at sill areas adjacent to steps and slabs. There is no way to tell the extent of rot damage unless the step/slab or portions are removed. An inspector must look very carefully at these areas.
When damage is discovered you should get three estimates for repair and negotiate before a closing or be prepared to absorb the costs yourself.
Why You Should Do a Home Inspection
by Steve Ramos of EnviroVue
Home Inspection
03-03-2005
A home inspection is an objective visual examination of the physical structure and systems of a home, from roof to foundation. A home inspection is the equivalent of a physical examination from your doctor. When problems or symptoms of problems are found, the inspector may recommend further evaluation or remedies. A home inspection summarizes the condition of a property, points out the need for major repairs and identifies areas that may need attention in the near future. Buyers and sellers depend on an accurate home inspection to maximize their knowledge of the property in order to make intelligent decisions before executing an agreement for sale or purchase. A home inspection points out the positive aspects of a home, as well as the maintenance that will be necessary to keep it in good shape. After an inspection, both parties have a much clearer understanding of the value and needs of the property.
There are many good reasons to do a pre-purchase home inspection. Here are just a few:
Reason #1: It makes good business sense
Consider the fact that the average price of a home is in excess of $400,000.
Consider that a new roof can cost anywhere from $6000 - $35,000.
Consider the fact that a new furnace can cost from $3000 - $10,000.
Reason #2: You will have greater peace of mind
Buildings old and new need repairs and even on newer buildings it is not uncommon to have repairs estimates into the thousands of dollars.
Reason #3: You will be better informed
Being armed with the right information will help you make a good decision and feel great about it. Not doubt about it, buying real estate is not a stress-free event but a home inspection will relieve some of the strain.
Reason #4: Some inspections provide free short term warranties
Ask your Realtor about short term home inspection warranties. These warranties are sometimes provided by Home Inspectors and are a valuable protection of your investment.
Reason #5: Some inspections provide after inspection services to help you maintain your home
Just a Typical Home Inspection
by Paul Rogoshewski of Harmony
Home Inspection
12-12-2004
Well you've found your dream home after searching for several months. It's in the right town, close to work, the schools are good, the price is, oh well, the price is as good as its going to get! The house has a snazzy modern kitchen, the bathrooms have been remodeled, and the house has a fresh coat of paint. Its just perfect!
Most houses sell on looks. The snazzy kitchen and fresh new paint do wonders for sales appeal, and you're just totally enamored with your new home. You know you should get a home inspection just in case, so you talk to your friends about who they used, search the web, peruse qualifications, affiliations, testimonials, and fees for the various inspectors, call up a few and go with the one you felt best about.
He shows up the day of the inspection, and after introductions and signing the inspection contract, he gets started and you follow him around as he does his thing. The first thing he says is that the roof appears to be at the end of its life and you should anticipate replacing it in the near future. You think, O.K., I didn't notice that but I can deal with that. He checks some areas around the window trim with a screwdriver and finds that some moisture damaged wood had been painted over and several sills will need eventual replacing. You start to wonder what else he'll find., its only been a few minutes since he started the inspection.
He's making notes on his clipboard as he checks various items on the outside of the house. You ask him what he's writing and he gives you a run down on the what's OK and not OK so far. You realize this is not going to be a picnic and that you're not going to have the time of your life. This is serious business and everything he is saying is translating into dollars and cents. The cash register in your brain is starting to go ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching. He explains that there are no perfect houses, they all have problems, and that you should try to remain calm and take things in stride. You calm down a bit, are glad you hired him, and at the same time you are wondering if ignorance is bliss.
The inspector says you have some typical cracks in the foundation and they are not a structural concern, but they should be sealed up to prevent moisture entry and termite entry. He says to get a crack repair specialist to do it (ka-ching). You feel a little better though because you remember seeing those cracks and you had a major concern about them. You were wondering if there was something structurally wrong with the house. The cracks were the reason you thought you should have an inspection in the first place.
The inspector points out a few other concerns on the exterior, namely a set of stairs with no railing and some offsets in the concrete walkway that he calls a trip hazard. He says both conditions are unsafe and should be corrected and you're thinking this guy is too much of a perfectionist. He goes on to talk about a 1998 Harvard University study that concluded that trips and falls are the number one health and safety hazard in a home. You realize again that he appears to really know what he's talking about and you're happy about that. But not too happy about that cash register in your brain though, ka-ching!.
The inspector says he is now ready to do the garage and then after that the basement. You had noticed that he had tested an exterior outlet with some sort of device. He does this again at the garage outlet and states that the GFCI receptacle is inoperative, a safety hazard, and needs repair by an electrician. He explains that a GFCI is a safety device that can actually save your life in certain instances, and should be present at all areas where electricity and water are in close contact, such as exteriors, garage outlets, kitchen counters, bathrooms, unfinished basements, and whirlpools. Since you have an older house, he is expecting that you have some in a few places. He says he may also recommend additional GFCI outlets be added as a safety upgrade. He also tests, among other things, the garage door and states that the auto-reverse mechanism is inoperative, a serious safety hazard, and needs to be adjusted or repaired.
On to the basement. He checks the framing at the perimeter of the house with a three foot long probe and states everything seems OK, looks at the rest of the basement framing, makes a few checks, and its on to plumbing. He checks the main line, the supply lines, the gas lines, the drain lines. Everything is going much better now. At the new water heater he pauses, checks the label and states the water heater may be at the end of its service life. You're thinking, "but it looks brand new, how can this be?" He states that the tank appears to be about 10 years old as indicated by the serial number on the nameplate, which is beyond the normal life expectancy of a water heater and you should plan on replacing it before it becomes a problem. Ka-ching, ka-ching!
On to electrical. The inspector unscrews the service panel door, looks inside for a while and states that there are a few double tapped circuits that should be separated by using "skinny" breakers and that labeling could be improved. Not so bad. He also notes a few uncovered junction boxes that need covers and an open splice, where two wires are connected with tape, important fire safety hazards that need correction.
He checks the gas heater and gives it a clean bill of health. Its a ten year old cast iron boiler that he says should last a long time.
He says the worst is over now and you follow him upstairs. The upstairs inspection seems to move much faster. The inspector checks the kitchen, no real problems except some dings in the vinyl floor. The toilet in the bathroom needs a new wax seal, a sink needs a new faucet, small stuff in comparison. He moves through the dining room, living room, and bedrooms, checking electrical outlets and windows, looking at the ceiling, walls, and what he can see of the floor. He also checks the heat in each room with a cool little laser thermometer as he cruises from room to room. A few things come up, nothing major. He has been shutting all the windows in the house as he goes for the radon test.
Last place he goes is the attic. He gets up in the scuttle hole and disappears from view, but you hear him walking around above you. He says that the framing is okay but you could use more insulation for energy savings and you will also need some extra attic ventilation as well. The bathroom ventilator terminates in the attic and can cause condensation problems, he says. He recommends rerouting it to the outside. Almost done now.
He places radon canisters in the basement and you discuss the protocol of the test and when to pick up the test canisters.
Back to the kitchen where he makes his final touches to his report, hands it to you, tells you to make sure you read it carefully. You hand him his check and you say your good-byes.
Well that's how a typical home inspection goes in an older home. Sometimes
its an old roof or an ancient boiler, sometimes its the electrical service. The
point is that almost all older homes need repairs and some of these will be
major. You must decide whether the
house is worth it at the current price, whether you'd like to negotiate a lower
price, or whether you'll walk away due to unanticipated major repairs.
Your not exactly overjoyed, there is a lot to consider and you have a little more homework than you bargained for, but you're glad you hired that home inspector!
Five Things You Should Know About Home Inspections
I could write a book about each of the subjects below. In the interest of giving the buyer some useful information before the home inspection, I have tried to summarize the most common things I tell my customers, friends, and business associates about home inspections in Massachusetts.
1.) Most real estate agents work for the Seller. Unless you have a signed contract that they are representing you as a Buyers agent, their fiduciary responsibility is to maximize the profit for the Seller. If they are a Sellers agent and recommending home inspectors to you, it may not be in your best interest to take their recommendation. In some states, Massachusetts for example, it is unlawful for Sellers agents to recommend home inspectors. Hire a home inspector you trust. If you're on your own, look for a home inspector that can demonstrate education, experience, and professional affiliation. If the state has licensing, check the State licensing board or the Better Business Bureau for a complaint history of the company. Don't go by the price of an inspection. You get what you pay for.
2.) Septic systems are usually not part of a home inspection but are a major cost component of the house and should be inspected prior to purchase. Some states like Massachusetts, for example, require that septic systems be inspected before the sale of the property. These inspections are for the protection of the environment and are on a pass/fail basis. They do not tell you that replacement time may be near. Depending on a number of factors, the average life of a septic system is around thirty years. If the septic system was not pumped regularly, if a garbage disposal was used, if fine grained soils exist in the area, life expectancy can be shortened. Septic system replacement can range from under ten to over thirty thousand dollars. It is a very good idea to visit the local board of health for further information about the house, the area, and the average life and replacement costs of neighboring systems.
3.) Radon is a radioactive gas that is a by-product from the decay of naturally occurring uranium deposits in certain underlying rock formations. It has been designated a cancer producing agent by the EPA and corrective action is recommended when radon levels exceed 4 PiC/Liter in indoor air. A 1998 Harvard University study still rated radon as the #1 health and safety risk in the home, causing a projected 15,000 deaths a year in the US due to lung cancer. I believe getting the house tested for radon levels is important to your health. Please note that any testing done before you actually move in will be preliminary in nature. Radon levels may vary according to season, barometric pressure, and other factors. It is always recommended that further testing be conducted once you occupy the house.
4.) If you are thinking of buying a house with a private well, your Lender may require a water quantity, or flow test. Also, if the well flow has not been checked within the last year or two, a pump test is recommended. The FHA performance standard is that the water supply provide a minimum of 5 gallons per minute of flow over a four hour period for a total of at least 1200 gallons pumped without any significant drop off in flow. The pump test can be done during the inspection if the inspector performs this. If you have no recent (within a year) water quality test data from the owner, I also recommend a comprehensive water analysis, which includes a variety of metals, inorganic substances, and about sixty toxic organic chemicals. If the home is located near a farm, apple orchard, or recreational lake, it is advisable to consider testing for pesticides as well. A standard water analysis is the bare minimum accepted by FHA/VA loan requirements, but I feel that this is inadequate in today's' environment. Your home inspector can take water samples at the time of the inspection.
5.) Getting a termite inspection is essential if you are buying a single or multi-family home, a townhouse, or a lower level garden style apartment. The eastern subterranean termite can do major damage to the structure of a home and can go undetected for years. Many home inspectors offer pest inspections in addition to the standard home inspection. Also included in the pest inspection would be an inspection for carpenter ants, powder post beetles, and carpenter bees, which are all wood destroying organisms.
Is Your Home as Fire Safe as You Can Make It?
The answers to these questions will help determine if it is.
Smoke Detectors:
There are three basic types of residential smoke detectors, all with different means for detecting smoke and fire, different types of fires they detect best, and different replacement reasons & needs.
Ionization Smoke Detectors powered by batteries are the most common kind and economically available at most local hardware and discount stores. They can be mounted easily in just about any location. They use a small radioactive source (not harmful to humans) to cause the air inside the detector to be capable of carrying electric current. As particles of smoke enter the detector they block the flow of electricity. Low electrical current causes the alarm to sound. These detectors work best on flaming type fires (wood, paper, etc) and react a little slower on smoldering fires (mattresses, couches, etc). Batteries need to be replaced occasionally. If your detector starts making a chirping sound every so often, you need to change the battery. A general recommendation is to change these batteries every six months, usually timed to a major event like springing forward to daylight savings time or falling back to normal time. (Some newer smoke detectors come with a 10 year Lithium battery that eliminates the need to change batteries.) Remember battery powered detectors operate even during power failures.
Photoelectric Smoke Detectors use a light sensitive photocell to detect smoke inside the detector. They usually require a connection to an electrical supply but are also available with a battery backup. A light bulb puts out a beam of light. The photocell is hidden from direct exposure to the light beam. Smoke entering the detector causes the light beam to be reflected in several directions. The photo cell detects the reflected light and causes the alarm to go off. These detectors work best on smoldering fires and react a little slower on flaming type fires. The light bulbs need replacement every few years.
Thermal Detectors usually requiring a connection to an electrical supply, react to heat rather than smoke. A fire must raise the heat level near the detector to cause the alarm to go off. This type of detector is mostly used in dusty, dirty environments usually found in industrial and commercial applications. This is the type of detector that most fire sprinkler heads use to detect heat, pop, and start spraying water. This detector would be good near a cooking stove where an ionization or photoelectric smoke detector might cause false alarms.
Where Should You Put Smoke Detectors?
Why should you replace your smoke detectors every 10 years?
The NFPA recommends, and some cities Fire Codes require, that smoke detectors be tested at least monthly and replaced when they fail to respond or every 10 years maximum. In addition, most manufacturers now mark their detectors for a maximum life of 10 years.
Why do they need to be replaced every 10 years?
10 years is a somewhat arbitrary figure, developed by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) but, as with any equipment you buy (TVs, VCRs, etc), parts start breaking and failing as the equipment ages. This includes smoke detectors. Sometimes stuff just breaks without us noticing (in the case of smoke detectors, it’s sometimes to late). The detection chamber gets clogged with dust & other airborne debris. In addition, as detectors age the sensitivity settings tend to drift toward being more sensitive causing more false alarms and people tend to disconnect the power supply on those detectors. A 1994 CPSC study found that sixty percent of detector failures were caused by the power supply (electricity or batteries) intentionally being removed due to problems with false alarms. Fifty percent of the failed detectors were more than 10 years old. The fact that some older detectors were made to be more sensitive also resulted in their disconnection from power.
Always replace your detectors whenever any of the following occur.
When you move into a used home, you have no way of knowing how old the detectors are. Replace them when you move in.
Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detectors
Carbon Monoxide kills silently and sneakily. It is a colorless, odorless gas that is a byproduct of fossil fuel burning. It can be generated by wood stoves, fireplaces, appliances that use natural gas, propane or oil such as furnaces, space heaters, dryers, kitchen ranges, or other open flame appliances. Normally the gases generated by burning are vented safely outside the house, however blocked vents or not enough oxygen to the burners can quickly cause elevated levels of CO.
The best defense is a good offense.
Check your fireplaces & wood stoves for closed or blocked flues.
Have a qualified chimney sweep (find one at www.csia.org) inspect chimneys and vents yearly for cracks, blockages (e.g., bird's nests, twigs, old mortar), corrosion or holes.
If you want to enclose a furnace or water heater in a smaller room make sure there is plenty of combustion air available.
Have a Heating & Air Conditioning contractor check your fuel burning appliances, before cold weather sets in. Make sure they are in working order.
If you have a downdraft cooktop, such as a Jenn-Aire, or a powerful kitchen ventilation fan over the stove, make sure make sure it doesn’t pull fumes back down your wood stove flue or chimney.
Don’t use gas or propane cooking stoves or ovens to heat your home.
Don’t use barbecue grills inside the garage or house. Not even charcoal grills.
Open your garage door before starting the car in the garage. Back the car out of the garage right away and close the door. Not doing so can draw fumes into the house. Nor should you use a remote starter if the car is in the garage.
Don’t run gasoline engines in a garage or house.
Don’t use a kerosene fueled space heater in a garage or house. If you absolutely have to, make sure there is plenty of ventilation and combustion air by opening windows or doors. When you have to put more fuel in the heater, cool it down first and take it outside to refuel.
Clean the ductwork for the gas clothes dryer regularly. Also check it for blockage by snow, plants or lint.
CO is sneaky. CO hurts you by rapidly accumulating in the blood stream which depletes the bloods ability to carry oxygen throughout the body. Even at low levels, carbon monoxide can cause serious health problems.
Some of the symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to those of the flu, i.e. headaches, nausea, fatigue, dizzy spells, etc. If you may have been exposed to CO and feel like the flu bug bit you, you should also ask your doctor to check you for CO poisoning.
Battery powered and electrically connected CO detectors are available that can detect CO at levels as low as .01 percent.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations in placing & testing CO detectors. They are generally placed near sleeping areas and the home’s furnace.
Most manufacturers recommend testing CO Detectors weekly and replacing them every five years. Just like smoke detectors, they wear out and fail.
How Should You Respond to a CO Alarm?
Get everyone, including pets, out of the house. Count heads to make sure everyone is out.
If flu like symptoms are present, call 911. If there are no health problems call your heating contractor, gas company or fire department to have your house tested.
DO NOT ventilate your home, reset the CO detector, or turn off fuel burning appliances unless it s an apartment, duplex or other multifamily type home. If it is, the safety of your neighbors is more important than finding the CO source. (Many CO alarms have been designated false alarms because the homeowner ventilated the home and turned off the fuel burning equipment before the source could be traced.)
DO NOT go back in the home until the testing technician tells you that it is safe to do so.
If you need a CO Detector and you have it, you’ll be glad you had it.
If you need a CO Detector and don’t have it, you may never know the difference, but your relatives will!
Fire Extinguishers
Neither one extinguisher nor one type of extinguisher is adequate to protect your home. In a three bedroom home with a basement and a garage, I recommend that you have at least four extinguishers.
Only try to fight minor blazes. If it becomes a serious fire, GET OUT! Call 911 from a neighbor’s house.
Your Fire Escape Plan
This information is my opinion based on my research and education. It is provided for general information purposes only. Any actions you take based on this information is your responsibility. I suggest that you consult a specialist in the particular field to determine the best practices in your particular situation.
Crawlspaces and Moisture Problems
Every day that I wake up and head out to inspect someone’s home that has a crawlspace, I could probably fill out some of my inspection forms ahead of time. It is an unfortunate fact that most crawlspaces have moisture problems. As we all know, there are plenty of horror stories out there about crawlspaces and moisture problems so why don’t we talk about the cause and cure of these problems.
There are two different types of crawlspace setups, vented and non-vented.
Vented: There are vents that provide adequate cross ventilation, the sub floor of the home is insulated along with the pipes in the crawlspace to prevent freezing, there is a vapor barrier on the ground and the vents get closed in the winter time. A small heater or heat tape is used to help keep the pipes from freezing in addition to the insulation on the pipes.
Non-vented: The crawlspace foundation walls are insulated, the sub-floor is not. The vents are blocked off with insulation all year long, a vapor barrier is in place on the crawlspace ground and the air is conditioned with a dehumidifier. A small heater and pipe insulation are still recommended.
Causes & Cures:
1.) No rain gutters. Although controversial, we all need gutters to keep the rainwater away from our homes. The average roof sheds 1,000 gallons of water during 1 inch of rain. This water will fall along the foundation and find the crawlspace very quickly. The best rain gutter covers are solid and cover the gutter opening, allowing water to come in by curling under the cap via gravity. Mesh and screen covers just get clogged up or collapse.
2.) Downspouts terminate along foundation. The downspouts need to shed water away from the home at least 6 feet or more or to underground pipes that lead away from the home.
3.) Terrain slopes toward foundation. Make sure that the landscaping does not do this. All surface water should be directed away from the home. A swale may be necessary if your home is built on a slope. The foundation can have significant structural damage caused by water along the foundation that freezes in the winter collapsing the foundation inward.
4.) Inadequate ventilation. Don’t forget to open those vents that you closed for the winter. A crawlspace needs a minimum of 1 square foot of ventilation for every 150 square feet of crawlspace floor area and should be within 3 feet of the corners allowing for cross ventilation. Low decks, other types of construction above or against vents along with shrubs can block the vents making them useless. Your home needs to breathe.
5.) Insulation installed upside down. Depending on how you have your crawlspace set up, either vented or non-vented, you may have insulation in the flooring. The paper side of the fiberglass insulation should always face the heated living space and sit against the sub flooring. When it faces downward towards the earth, it has a tendency to trap moisture between the sub floor and the paper hiding moisture damage. If your crawlspace is set up properly as a non vented crawlspace, no insulation is necessary in your floor.
6.) Damaged or loose vapor barrier. You should have a 6 mil thick poly vapor barrier on the ground of your crawlspace, overlapped and sealed around columns and the walls. This will help to keep the ground moisture vapors from rising up into your framing. Most homeowners will add gravel on the top for protection.
7.) No or non functioning sump pump. If you have a sump pump installed, make sure it is at the lowest point in the crawlspace and all areas easily drain to it. The pump should be inspected regularly and function automatically. If you get standing water in your crawlspace even with items 1 through 6 in place, you need a sump pump. Nothing can take the place of a properly installed perimeter foundation drainage system by the builder but a sump pump is the next best thing. The pump should be in a plastic cylinder in the ground and eject water outside, away from the building and not into the septic or sewer system.
8.) A non vented crawlspace with no dehumidifier. If you are going to set up your crawlspace as non-vented, you must condition the air with a dehumidifier and have the water collected and piped to the sump pump or install a condensate pump. If you don’t pipe it to drain automatically, you will be emptying the collection device daily. Buy a quality dehumidifier with an adjustable, automatic setting so it does not run all of the time.
Please remember that a crawlspace is an integral part of your home and should be kept neat, clean and easily accessible. Inspect it often looking for signs of moisture or mildew and consult the local code official for any repairs. Remember the old saying “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”.
From experience, my personal preference is the non-vented crawlspace. Talk with your home improvement specialist or builder to see what is best for your situation. All systems should be professionally installed and inspected by local code enforcement.
So, Who's Afraid of the Big, Bad, Home Inspection?
by Ron W. Ringen of Ringen's
Unbiased Inspections
07-18-2004
No matter whom you talk to that is involved in a home sale transaction, whether it be the owner, buyer, or real estate agent, everyone has a certain amount of reservation concerning a home inspection or "termite" inspection. Why? All that it entails is basically a visual inspection of the home and a short written report, right? So, who’s afraid of the big, bad home inspection? Everyone it seems!
Let me start by making an obvious observation. For most all of us, the single biggest investment we will make in our lifetime is the purchase of our own home. Not only is it an investment that we can’t have go sour, but we must make a comfortable, safe place out of the dwelling to protect and grow our families that we can live in happily and call "home". And when we’ve outgrown or want a new/different home, we need to realize the equity we have built up in the property to help us purchase our next "home". "OK", you say, "I know all of this. What has this got to do with being afraid of home inspections?" Everything, actually, because it is well known that buying or selling a home is probably the second biggest stress we will encounter in our life. All the uncertainty and suspicions begin to "bubble to the surface" as the home sale process grinds on which skews our thinking, and sometimes our common sense.
So, let’s look logically at what a home inspection has to offer for each participant in the home sale process. I want to start with the home owner who is thinking about moving and about to list his/her property for sale, because usually they are the ones that think they have nothing to gain from, and everything to loose from a home inspection. Nothing could be further from the truth.
No matter what "shape" the owner feels his/her property is in (good, bad or in between), the smartest thing they can do is spend the few dollars necessary for an accurate home inspection and "termite" inspection. Spending these few dollars in the beginning will save you major dollars and stress in the end. Possessing this information prior to listing your home for sale not only enables you to plan, but to price your property accurately. The information gleaned from the reports allows you to take care of any repairs that you feel you want to on your time schedule, and to obtain bids from various contractors for repairs you don’t want to tackle yourself, which could save you a lot of money in the process. When you do list your property for sale, you do so empowered with the knowledge that you know of, or have taken care of any repairs, and you can go into negotiations with the buyer straight on because you have a "heads-up" on what the condition of your home is. This negotiating strength will allow you to realize as much of your equity as possible to be used to purchase your new home. Most real estate agents will appreciate this situation also because it takes most of all the uncertainty and stress out of the equation. Normally the home inspection results are revealed shortly before escrow is to close and there is no time for obtaining bids or alternative actions, which can result in a "blown" deal with everyone unhappy.
Most everyone thinks that a home inspection and "termite" inspection is only for the "protection" of the buyer. That is only partly true. Sure home inspections are ordered to reveal any unknown/undisclosed issues. But, the buyer didn’t order and pay for the inspections to make the property out as garbage! The buyer likes and wants to spend and invest their hard earned money on the property and they want to make it their "home". As a prospective purchaser of a home and property, you want the inspection(s) to validate your decision to purchase that piece of property. You want to know what you are buying. You, of course, want to know what the big issues are, if any, but you also want to know the little things that will be an irritation or money drain before you sign the contract of sale. You want to make up your own mind as to what is acceptable as is, and what is not and needs to be negotiated with the seller. And just about as important, the home inspection is actually your first in depth "get acquainted" look at your new home because it covers information on so many of the homes’ components, systems, utilities and their locations. But even that is not all, if your home inspector is like most concerned inspectors’, he is your source for information you can turn to long after the close of escrow when everyone else involved in the deal has disappeared.
OK, onto the real estate agent and what the home inspection and "termite" inspection has to offer them. How about peace of mind? How about the good feeling inside that you have put together a home sale in which both the buyer and seller are happy and there is not going to be a bad case of "buyers remorse" now that escrow is closed? How about the fact that you are looked up to as an agent that demands full disclosure and still can close the deal BECAUSE EVERY BODY KNOWS WHERE THEY STAND AND WHAT THEY CAN EXPECT OUT OF THE DEAL! In the years I have been involved in inspecting homes, I can’t tell you how many times I have seen buyers follow through and close a sale of a home with major issues because they not only like the home, but because they are fully aware of its’ short comings and are mentally prepared to take it on. With truth and knowledge everyone comes out ahead. As I’ve been preaching for years, your buyer today is your seller tomorrow.
So in closing, there is absolutely nothing to fear from a home inspection or "termite" inspection except fear itself. These are "tools" to be used in a positive way to bring about a positive home sale experience, if you choose to use them in that way.
Structural Pest Inspections - Peeling The Onion
by Ron W. Ringen of Ringen's
Unbiased Inspections
07-02-2004
Wood pests, wood destroying organisms, structural pests, termites and dryrot, or fungus, whatever or however you refer to them, they are the uninvited unwanted guests that can degrade the wood structure of your home or the home you are interested in purchasing. What is interesting is how these conditions are addressed in the various states.
Some states allow home inspectors to identify and report on these issues if the inspector is properly certified or licensed. Meanwhile, other states (California is one) do not allow home inspectors to identify wood destroying organisms unless that inspector is also licensed as a structural pest inspector, of which there are very few. But, if the inspector is properly licensed, then the reporting will be done on a report form mandated by the Structural Pest Control Board located in Sacramento and the reporting process falls under a whole slew of regulations administered by the Structural Pest Control Board. In California a home inspector can only mention a “wood pest” or “white growth” condition and note it in his or her report, and then, can only refer/defer to a licensed Structural Pest Inspector or company for further details, proper identification of the wood pests involved, and recommendations necessary to correct or repair the issues present.
This practice is unfortunate as that process breeds (in California anyway) a huge conflict of interest situation that revolves around the home sale or purchase activity. In California, the Structural Pest Companies perform the “termite” inspections (the term commonly used to describe a Structural Pest Inspection) for little or no money with the intent of getting their “foot in the door” to do the chemical treatments and repair jobs, which can be very expensive. So, lets peal off the first layer of the onion. The scenario goes: The inspector/company you call to make the inspection is the same person who provides you with a report that outlines the repairs and chemical treatments that he/she says are needed, which is the same person shoving a pen and a work contract into your hands to sign, which is the same person/company that sends out their repair crew to perform the work, which is the same person/company that “inspects” the completed work and then issues a Notice of Completion and certifies the property “free and clear”. I don’t know about you, but in my opinion, that is a big conflict of interest.
But wait, lets take it one more step. Lets peal off the next layer of the onion. How about the fact that many of the “termite” companies pay their inspectors straight commission on WORK PERFORMED/COMPLETED! Might that smack of a little conflict of interest? How comfortable would you feel having your home inspected under those conditions? How objective and impartial do you feel the outcome of the “termite” report will be, knowing that the “termite” company/inspector lost money the moment the tailgate of the inspectors’ truck went through the shop gate on the way to the inspection and now they need to recoup?
Time to peal the next layer off of the onion (are your eyes watering yet?). Now lets throw the real estate agent into the mix. The agent calls the “termite” company for his client (purchaser) and orders the inspection. All fine and good unless this agent happens to be one of those who has a predetermined idea as to what the outcome of the inspection should be in order to close the deal quickly and with no hassles even though the inspection report may have no basis of reality as to the conditions present. This is why, on occasions too numerous to count, two inspections of the same home are worlds apart. The rule is: both/all reports of the same home should contain the same findings, but the recommendations to repair may differ as inspectors may have different methods to correct the conditions found. It is very disturbing when comparing two reports of the same home, that, the diagram, as well as the findings, is as if the two inspectors looked at two different homes. But, this occurs all too often because of the pressure applied by the agents by “black balling” inspectors that are perceived to be “deal busters” because they actually do their job and accurately report conditions present. Please don’t feel that this discussion is saying that all real estate agents or termite inspectors/companies are “shady”. More are good than bad, but the questionable still exist and you need to be aware and do “your home work” so you don’t end up in a situation you didn’t bargain for.
So, lets peal another layer off of that onion, but in a positive way this time. ALWAYS, I REPEAT, ALWAYS interview the real estate agent before engaging them. Just because the agent meets you at the door of the office doesn’t mean you are “stuck” with him/her. If the agent is the listing agent of the property, be especially wary. They will not legally be working for you or have your best interest at heart. That is where the questionable termite inspector/company may suddenly appear. You want to ask the hard questions and get the proper answers! You want to know names and phone numbers---- not of sellers, but of purchasers of property handled by the agent so you can find out how their (the purchaser) experience was. Of course, this is a good time to find out how satisfied they were with the pest work that was performed. You would be surprised how many buyers are very unhappy with the quality/completeness of the pest repair work but don’t have the stamina to “fight the system”.
In closing, referrals from qualified sources is your best way to find the inspector and real estate agent that will best serve you. Remember, the ones charging the least are most likely the ones to give you the least. A home purchase is probably the single largest investment any of us will make in our lifetime, don’t shortchange yourself by falling into the age-old trap of the “cheapest”.
Prepare Your House For a Professional Look-See
If you are in the process of selling a home, the chances are that sooner or later you will have the home inspected by a professional home inspector. Here is a checklist of 10 ways to make life easier — and hopefully leave a good impression for the home inspector.
• If the house is vacant make sure that all the utilities
(gas, electrical power and water) are on. In most cases, this is a requirement
of the real estate contract.
• If you have a dog or dogs, they should be removed from the
house during the inspection. It may seem funny to you, but some people are
afraid of even the friendliest dog.
• Make sure that all furniture or stored personal items are
not in front of electrical panel boxes, furnaces and water heaters. The
inspector needs to get close to these appliances both to operate them and to
read label plates that contain manufacturing dates and sizes.
• Remove any obstructions in front of attic or crawl space
accesses. This is especially true if you have any clothes hanging in a closet
that accesses the attic. Failure to do this often results in insulation falling
on your clothes. Lawn mowers and other tools should be removed if they block
access to a crawl space under the house. Crawl spaces are by nature unpleasant
to inspect; the easier the access, the better.
• If keys are required for entry into crawl spaces, sheds or
storage rooms, the keys should be left in an obvious location for the inspector.
• If you have had work or maintenance done on the house,
copies of building permits, warranties or receipts will be helpful to the
inspector. This information keeps the inspector from making assumptions based on
incomplete information.
• Remove any stored items from bathtubs (yes, believe it or
not, it happens). The inspector will need to fill the tub with water and operate
the shower.
• If you have a security system, leave it off for the
inspection. Nothing is more time-consuming and distracting than an alarm going
off.
• If the clothes washer and dryer are included in the sale,
remove all your clothing from them. The inspector will need to test them for the
buyer.
Buying a Newly Constructed Home?
One of the common misconceptions being circulated today is the notion that newly constructed homes do not need a professional home inspection. After all, the builder has assured you at the walk-through that everything is OK and the house has been "passed off" by the local building department. Not so fast. Let's look at a few facts before we go any further.
A big difference in home building today is the way the companies are structured. Your nationally recognized, award winning builder is really no better than the local workforce and the supervision watching over them. They can fall back on their size and past repution all they want, but you are at the mercy of the of the people swinging the hammers, pulling the cable and the supervision in charge. After WWII, the building contractors employed a significant number of the total workforce on a housing tract. Today, they basically set up a trailer, coordinate sub-contractors and schedule walk-throughs. Their payroll is countable on one hand. Bottom line is "who's looking out for you"? Who is demanding that the low-bid sub-contractors working on your investment perform to manufacturer's recommendations, building standards and widely accepted construction techniques? Recently, while out in the field, I observed two houses being framed side by side in the tract of nationally advertised builder. One building was being framed by two men in a well stocked work truck. The other was being framed by 6 guys that drove up in an old station wagon. The two men had their own water on the back of their truck. I observed some of the 6 guys walking into the front yards of occupied homes drinking out of their garden hose. Who whould you want to build your home? For that matter, how would you ever know?
You need an advocate. You need a hired set of eyes. You need an un-biased, third party to inform you of any and all visible components that were not installed properly or may be defective. Every building was new at one time. Unfortunately, many people live in some that were "signed off" by the local building inspector from the booth at the local coffee shop.
A new home is inspected in exactly the same manner as one that was built 50 years ago; systematically. The big difference however, is the expectations of the buyer. The new home buyer is in a position to demand near-perfection. I have watched clients of mine spend literally hours going around a new home with a roll of blue masking tape, marking scratches, dents, chips, runs, etc. Meanwhile, I am in the attic, on the tile roof, inside the electric panel and under the kitchen sink. What teamwork! As long as you have the builder and his supporting cast of sub-contractors "on the hook", you are well served by having the home thoroughly inspected by a qualified, professional inspector. The documentation will send a strong message to the builder that you are informed and expect the building to exhibit proper building component applications. If you did not have your new home inspected, fear not. The builder is responsible for up to 10 years on certain component applications. There is no excuse for negligence. True, we all make mistakes, but the supervision (builder) gets paid for catching those mistakes before they are passed on to the unsuspecting consumer. Recommended course of action? Schedule a visual home inspection immediately.
One of the frequently asked questions of a new home buyer is, "How do I know if there is an abandoned oil tank on the premises? ’’.
As an experienced home inspector, a licensed real estate appraiser and a real estate investor, I give the following advice; (A) to really be sure that there isn’t any in-ground oil tank, one must hire a professional with a special metal detector to search the property, this search costs about $250.00. But before spending any money on such a search, I suggest that the buyer first have a complete home and termite inspection. If the house is not acceptable and the purchase is terminated, the buyer could save the $250.00 tank search. (B) Before starting the home inspection, ask the inspector to examine the grounds close to the house for any signs of an in-ground tank. Even though an in-ground tank is outside the scope of the home inspection, if the inspector sees signs of an in-ground tank, a courtesy report can be entered into the report and save the buyer the $250.00 search fee. Many times there are tell tale signs of an in-ground oil tank such as: visible vent and/ or filler pipes sticking up through the ground from the tank. Also, in the basement there may be disconnected oil lines coming through the foundation wall that were the feed lines from a one time in-ground oil tank. Another sign is a concrete Channel that has been cut into the basement floor that leads to the furnace area. All oil lines running to a furnace must be covered with concrete for safety reasons. Most times when the lines are removed and the channel filled, a different colored fill concrete is a sure sign of a one time oil tank. Any of these signs is a good indication of a tank that has been removed or, there is still a tank in the ground. An almost sure sign that there is a tank is when a filler pipe is found in ground.
WE FOUND AN IN-GROUND TANK, NOW WHAT?
RULE ONE, under no condition purchase the house, no matter how "good the deal is", till the tank and ground is tested for any environmental contamination. The tank could have been abandoned many years ago with a couple hundred gallons of oil still in the tank. That oil may have leaked out over the years and has contaminated the ground. A serious environmental condition is something you don’t need to inherit with the purchase. If an in-ground tank is discovered, notify your attorney immediately about the tank and have him ask the seller to provide the EPA certification that the tank has been properly decommissioned.
WHAT IF THE SELLER SAYS THAT HE BOUGHT THE HOUSE " AS IS ", HE DIDN’T KNOW THERE WAS IN-GROUND TANK AND HE’S NOT PAYING FOR ANY TANK TESTING?
Well, because he bought the house "as is" doesn’t make the problem acceptable. Now the buyer has a decision to make, either walk away and look for another house or, pay for the tank and ground test. If I really wanted the house, I personally would pay for the tank and ground test. However, under no circumstances would I purchase a property with an untested oil tank. At this point I must give the reader another tip. If you have to pay for the tank and ground test, make sure you hire a reputable company to do the testing. A word of caution, the job is too important to hire a company based on price alone. Make sure the testing company has all the latest high tech testing equipment.
THE SELLER SAYS HE DID HAVE AN IN-GROUND TANK BUT HAD IT REMOVED OR FILLED WITH SAND.
Your attorney should ask the seller for the township certification that the tank was environmentally properly filled with sand or removed. One cannot just remove a tank or fill it with sand without the proper documentation from the NJDEP. These papers will be filed with the township.
WHAT IF THE SELLER SAYS THE TANK WAS REMOVED YEARS AGO BEFORE THE NJDEP DOCUMENTATION WAS REQUIRED?
(A) Ask where the tank was located, if you can find the old location, I suggest taking a ground contamination test in the area. Some would say at this point, "aren’t you going a little too far with this testing thing?". With the tank gone you are probably safe to say that no further action is necessary but, If you ever had any dealings with MURPHY’S LAW , you won’t hesitate to test the ground for contamination. (MURPHY’S LAW BEING - IF IT CAN HAPPEN IT WILL HAPPEN) By testing the ground you will know for sure if there is a contamination problem.
A TRUE STORY
I was inspecting a small house that seemed like a nice clean little house. When I got to the basement area, I detected a faint odor of oil, the type of oil used as fuel. The basement also had a small crawl space area with a dirt floor where a fuel storage tank was located. I crawled into the space to examine the tank and found a very slow leak. The leak was so small that one could not even see a drop forming on the tank. There wasn’t any big oil spot under the tank, just a little spot about 4 inches in diameter. Knowing the danger of oil contamination, I strongly urged the buyer not to purchase the house till the ground under the oil tank, in a tight crawl space, was tested for contamination. About a month later I received a call from the same buyer requesting another home inspection on a different house. When I asked her why she was not buying the first house, she said forget it, the house can’t be sold. She said that the owner had the ground tested for contamination and the ground had serious oil contamination. She went on to tell me that the little leak has caused $65,000.00 worth of contamination and the EPA was now involved in the clean up and the house cannot be sold.
THE SELLER SAYS HE HAS INSURANCE ON THE TANK THAT CAN BE TRANSFERRED TO THE NEW BUYER.
MAKE SURE the insurance policy covers ground contamination. Many insurance policies only cover the tank for a leak. Have your attorney go over the insurance policy thoroughly and I would also suggest that you call the insurance company and have them verify that ground contamination is covered. I have yet to know of an insurance company that is in business to pay claims.
TO SUM UP WHEN YOU ARE BUYING A HOUSE WITH AN IN-GROUND OIL TANK BE CAUTIOUS.
(A) If there is a functioning in-ground tank, test the tank for leaks and the ground for contamination.
(B) If there is an abandoned in-ground tank, test the ground for contamination.
Getting Your Home Ready for the Home Inspection
by David Fogle of HomeScope Property Inspection Services, Inc.
05-24-2004
It is typically the seller's responsibility to get the home ready for the inspection. The listing agent should notify the seller of these expectations. The following suggestions will help get the home ready for the home inspection, and minimize the need for the home inspector to make a return trip to the home, which may cost an additional fee.
Mold in the Home
"Mold is Gold" proclaims attorneys across the United States. It is speculated that mold related lawsuits may dwarf tobacco and asbestos lawsuits combined.
Television segments explore the "Sick House Syndrome". Newspaper headlines entice their readers with stories of homeowners being forced to leave their homes, and juries in courtrooms awarding multi-million dollar judgements against homebuilders and insurance companies.
How much of the mold headlines and hysteria in the media is hype, and actual health risk?
Let’s take a look at the types of mold, it’s causes, and who is most at risk from mold exposure.
What is Mold?
Mold has been around since the days of Noah. Mold is a microscopic organism found virtually everywhere, including the home. Mold grows on plants, foods, leaves, and other organic matter. It can be found indoors and outdoors. There are hundreds of varieties of mold, some beneficial, some toxic.
How does Mold grow?
For many people, they first learned about mold in an elementary school science class.
Students placed a piece of bread in a glass jar, added a few drops of water, sealed the lid, and stored the jar in a dark location. Over the next few days and weeks, a growth began, and eventually covered the entire piece of bread.
From this experiment, we learn that Mold requires three things to grow:
1. Moisture.
2. A Food Source: Organic materials such as wood.
3. A Physical Space with poor ventilation.
Mold in the Home
Based on the three requirements needed for mold to grow and thrive, let’s take a look at areas and conditions in a residential home that may be susceptible to mold growth.
Mold is commonly found growing in damp areas, such as in crawl spaces and basements. Improper grading and a lack of gutters, allow water to drain towards the home, and into the crawl space or basement. The moisture intrusion, combined with a food source, the wood floor joist and sub-flooring, combined with poor ventilation, produces an excellent environment for mold growth.
Areas of the home that have moisture related problems might be conducive to mold growth. Sources of moisture that may be contributing to mold growth include roof and plumbing leaks. Mold growth is likely when there is moisture intrusion into the wall cavity, which is common on homes clad with synthetic stucco (EIFS), or brick veneer homes without properly installed and functioning weep holes.
Residential homes of today may be more vulnerable to mold growth than homes built 30 years ago or older due to a lower level of ventilation in the home. As architects and builders design and build homes with higher insulation values and less ventilation, it creates one of the three requirements for mold growth: a physical space with poor ventilation.
Mold and Your Health
Once mold is growing in the home, spores can be released and inhaled. The Center for Disease Control (CDC) in Atlanta, Georgia has not defined what level of mold is considered safe, and what level would be considered a health risk. The people most at risk to mold related health problems are infants, and children, the elderly, and those affected by other health related issues and with low immune systems.
Out of hundreds of different types of mold, the following types are most related to health concerns:
1. Stachybotrys: possible association with pulmonary hemorrhage among infants; causes suppressed immune functions; some species are carcinogens.
2. Penicillium: common mold found in homes; effects respiratory system, some species are toxic.
3. Aspergillus: common mold found in homes; has 150 species that are all allergenic, some toxic and carcinogenic; related to asthma problems.
4. Fusarium: highly studied mold; correlates with suppressed immune system and the common cold, flu and congestion, may be toxic.
Mold Testing
If mold is observed in the home, it may be desirable to have the area tested to determine the type of mold, and whether it is toxic or non-toxic. A qualified professional trained to do mold testing should only perform mold testing. Qualified mold professionals include mycologist, industrial l hygienists, and indoor air quality specialists.
There are a number of mold testing methods.
Mold Abatement:
Once the type of mold is identified, removal (known as abatement) can be performed.
If the mold is toxic (Mycotoxic or Pathogenic), abatement should only be performed by a qualified professional, such as an Industrial Hygienist. Homeowners should not attempt to remediate any types of toxic mold.
If the mold is non-toxic (Allergenic), the first course of action will be to make necessary repairs and improvements to help eliminate the moisture source. Once repairs have been made, the affected area should be thoroughly cleaned using a non-ammonia soap with a stiff brush. Always wear gloves for protection, and a special repirator mask when handling moldy surfaces. After cleaning, the area should be disinfected using a solution of 10% bleach (1 1/2 cups bleach per gallon of water). Let the affected area dry overnight to allow the bleach to kill the mold. Be careful with bleach fumes as they can irritate the eyes, nose and throat. Never mix bleach and ammonia, as the fumes are toxic.
Reducing Mold in the Home
Proper control of moisture and the level of ventilation can reduce the risk of mold, and help in creating a healthy and happy home. Homeowners can be proactive in reducing the risk of mold by:
Fireplace Safety
As architectural styles and features of residential homes have changed throughout the years, the fireplace remains a desirable amenity. In days gone by, the fireplace served as the primary source of heating and cooking for the home. With the invention of more efficient central heating systems and cooking stoves, the role of the fireplace has shifted into a secondary heating source, as well as providing a central gathering place for family and friends.
More than one-third of Americans use fireplaces, wood stoves and other fuel-fired appliances as primary heat sources in their homes. Unfortunately, many people are unaware of the fire risks of heating with wood and solid fuels. Heating fires account for 36 percent of residential home fires in rural areas every year. All home heating systems, including fireplaces and wood stoves, require regular maintenance to function safely and efficiently.
The National Fire Protection Association estimates that there will be 14,000 house fires this year started by fireplaces. Major causes of these fires include overloading the fire, damage to the fireplace such as missing bricks, obstructed flues, ignition of nearby combustibles, and flying sparks.
These fire-safety tips from the U.S. Fire Administration can help keep fireplaces burning safely.
Fireplace and Wood Stove Safety
Burning fuels safely
Protecting your home's exterior
Protecting your home's interior
Electrical Inspections
How safe is the wiring inside your home? Many homes burn down because of electrical problems created by one owner and inherited by subsequent owners. Let’s take a look at the electrical system. Electricians are neat. Are there loose wires hanging in the basement ceiling or laying around in the attic? A homeowner or “helpful” brother-in-law probably installed those wires. Wires should be secured every four and a half feet. If the wires are hanging loose, don’t secure them. You want to have an electrician check the work.
When checking the system beyond a visual inspection, use a plug-in circuit tester. You can get one at any good home supply company. Get the type that also contains a ground fault circuit tester. They cost about $12.00. The tester has three lights on it, one is red and two are yellow. There is a button on it for testing the ground fault circuits. It also has a small chart on the one side that explains the different combinations of the lights. The second tool you will need is called a voltage sniffer. It looks like a fat ball point pen. It will make a noise or flash a light when it is near a live electrical line. You may have to go to an electrical supply company to get one. The sniffer will run about $25.00.
Take a look at your receptacles. Do they have two slots with a small hole? The small hole should be on the bottom, but about one in ten residential electricians install them that way. Three-hole receptacles are capable of being grounded. If they only contain two slots, you will need an adapter to get the three-prong tester to work. Let’s go through testing the three-hole receptacle first. Simply plug the tester into the receptacle. The two yellow lights should light. If anything different happens, you should check the chart on the back of the tester. Now, write down the results, and the location of the receptacle. When you check the receptacles in the bathrooms, garage, exterior, and the receptacles above the counter area in the kitchen, push the test button on the tester. If the receptacle is grounded, the power should cut off. If the receptacle is not grounded, it won’t trip or cut off the power. My suggestion is that you get the receptacles grounded. They are safer if they are grounded. If the power doesn’t shut off, look in the main panel box and check all the receptacles in the house. If you find a receptacle or breaker with a button on it marked “test,” push it. Go back and the power should be off at the receptacle. If it hasn’t shut off and you have no other receptacles with the test and reset buttons, that receptacle is not on a ground fault circuit interrupter. Get one installed. If the GFCI has tripped reset it with the reset button and continue testing the remaining receptacles in the house. The GFCI will work on an ungrounded outlet. A GFCI can also protect up to five receptacles besides the receptacle where it is installed. A whirlpool should be on it’s own GFCI.
You want GFCI protection on almost all receptacles near water. This includes bathrooms, above the kitchen counters, on the exterior, and in readily accessible areas in the garage. You should not plug a freezer or refrigerator into a GFCI protected receptacle. People often make this mistake, particularly in garages. The GFCI can trip in high humidity, during a thunderstorm, or from the surge of the motor starting. This can lead to a sad surprise when you get those steaks from the garage freezer. The receptacle for the sump pump should not be on a GFCI either. Although this does involve electricity and water, you don’t want it tripping during a thunderstorm when you may need your sump pump. The second result you want is all the remaining receptacles to be properly wired. Improperly wired receptacles can indicate nonprofessional electrical work. Nonprofessional electrical work burns down houses.
The second type of system, found in older homes, is the two-prong or two slot system. Plug the tester into the adapter you purchased. On the adapter is a small round piece of metal that lines up with the screw on the plate covering the receptacle box. Plug in the tester and push the metal against the screw. The ground light or second yellow light should light. If it doesn’t light, the receptacle box inside the wall is not grounded. If any other light on the tester lights, the receptacle is improperly wired. I would be more concerned about improper wiring than the lack of a ground wire, however both are important. Write down the location of all the receptacles that did not test properly, and the defects observed on them. GFCI’s are a very high priority, and you should have them installed as soon as possible. Remember those hanging wires? Hold the voltage sniffer close to the wires. If they are live, it will go off. Any live uninsulated or improperly protected electrical connections should be corrected immediately. At this point, show everyone in the house where they are so they may avoid them. Someone could be killed if they touch them before they are corrected. Practice using the sniffer on a cord for a lamp so you can see how it works. Next, run the refrigerator, the washer, dryer, and all the ceiling fans. Hold the voltage sniffer next to them. If it goes off, they are not grounded and should be on grounded circuits. Your highest priority is a safe electrical system. First, get the GFCI protection installed, and all live unprotected or unsecured wiring corrected. Next, ground the major appliances, and last, get the branch circuits grounded. Now, call an electrician and recite your "laundry list" to him. Hint: The bigger the job, the faster they seem to respond.
Radon Testing - A Good Investment For Your Peace of Mind
Radon is an environmental concern that potentially exists in all homes because every home has some sort of radon level (I have yet to have a test register 0.0 pi/l). Unlike carbon monoxide and/or smoke alarms that can sound off in the event of abnormal levels, radon is an odorless, colorless gas present in every home and cannot be detected by an installed device (except a mitigation system with a level indicator/alarm). Presently, no detector exists to warn you of abnormal levels.
It is important to test for radon as it is the second leading cause of lung cancer in homes where occupants are exposed to abnormal levels previously untested. Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive by-product gas from the earth. It seeps into the home in basement cracks, pipe chases, sump pits and uncovered dirt floor/crawlspaces. Homes built in high shale areas have been known to exhibit elevated radon levels. Some home builders will actually install piping in homes in areas where they build in shale for future mitigation system installations. Known "hot spot" areas are depicted on some USGS mapping in the U.S.
Radon levels vary from house to house. Lenders and insurers do not currently require a passing radon test to obtain a mortgage. I personally have seen test levels from under 1 to over 65 picocuries/liter. Levels of above 200 are known to exist. Canada has higher minimal correction radon levels.
While test kits exist for the do-it-yourselfer, it is best to have a professional conduct a proper radon test especially in the situation of a purchase and sale of real estate. Another good time to have radon tested is before you convert new living space in a lower level in a home below the current living level. (i.e. the basement of a raised-ranch style home).
If you are purchasing a home and there is no evident history of a radon test being conducted by an independent third party; it would be prudent to have a radon test conducted. If the current home seller has converted newer lower level living space since they purchased the home, a test would be warranted.
Lastly, let's not forget the "nesters" who have lived in a home for awhile and may want to find out the radon levels, even though they may not be selling in the near future. I have actually conducted radon tests for homeowners where a spouse had passed away from lung cancer and never smoked, and they lived in the house for over 20 years! They contacted me to conduct a test in part because their neighbor across the street recently sold their house and had to put in a mitigation system. They had no prior knowledge of radon whatsoever.
WORDS TO THE WISE: Be sure an independent, unbiased professional ( i.e. home inspector) is selected and conducts the test according to EPA protocol. The test can usually be conducted at a cost between $75 and $150. The two most common testing methods include charcoal canister and electronic electret devices. Atmospheric conditions and testing in winter months can produce elevated test results. Ventilating the home just prior to the test can actually cause elevated levels during the test period by creating a vacuum effect. If the radon test you ordered comes back abnormal and the test was conducted as part of a real estate purchase, a retest can be performed to rule out improper placement, lab error, etc. Make sure an independent contractor performs the test.
Lastly, be sure the "chain of custody" of the test rests with the professional conducting the test. This will insure a more accurate and honest test. Having a realtor involved with the deal pick up and mail the test cans (if electret system is not used) opens up for possible questionable test conditions/results, etc. I personally have had realtors offer to "pick up and mail" the test cans! While on the outside it may sound convenient, I personally do not allow this to happen. The realtors have said that they have done this for other inspectors.... Imagine that!
Not all inspectors place the test cans in the proper place. I could write a book on the stories I've heard from (angry) misinformed realtors. Imagine how many mitigation systems were installed, not to mention the "deals killed" by the improper tests conducted AND how the resulting information was delineated to the customer!
The EPA (not the home inspector) suggests that once a proper radon air test has been conducted and the results are 4.0 pi/l or higher in the lowest current living level, steps should be taken to lower the levels to below 4.0 pi/l. A mitigation contractor can be consulted (interview at least 2) to install a system retrofitted usually at a cost between $800 to $1,500 and may vary beyond this range by type of house, system and region/contractor. If the air radon test shows a level of 10.0 picocuries/liter or higher AND a well is the source of potable water in the home, the EPA suggests a water test be conducted to determine the level of radon in the drinking water.
Abnormal levels of radon in water can lead to stomach cancer (although not as high an incidence as air radon/lung cancer according to the EPA). If the levels in the tested well water come back abnormal, the situation is correctable with a professionally installed carbon water treatment system.
Once a failing air radon test result has been produced, a mitigation system which uses the amount of electricity of a 100 watt light bulb, will run 24/7. The vacuum motor will create some "white noise" and should be treated like a regular appliance....needing replacement every several years. I have seen motors installed in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and on the exterior of homes. Alarms and level gauges are available so you have more peace of mind. Caution, I once acquired home inspection clients because while they were away on vacation, their vacuum fan/motor which was installed in the attic caught on fire. They ended up having to buy another home!
In the final analysis, all homes have some level of radon. It's a good investment to have your home tested for it. Abnormal radon levels are correctable with a professionally installed mitigation system.
Don't Let Clutter Ruin Your Home Inspection
You have decided to get a home inspection. This is a smart decision. Now you will want to get the most out of your inspection. Home inspectors everywhere often come across limiting conditions that interfere with a complete report for the client. After paying for a professional home inspection, you do not want to see these words on your report “Inspection limited due to the excess possessions blocking access and view.”
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The American Society of Home Inspectors ASHI ®, Standards of Professional Practice, reads in part, Inspectors are NOT to report on: any component or system which was not observed . Further, Inspectors are NOT required to: disturb insulation, move personal items, furniture, equipment, plant life, soil, snow and ice, debris which obstructs access or visibility. It is most regrettable to me when a major component of the home such as the water heater, electrical panels, heating and cooling systems, and the attic are not accessible because the current homeowner’s personal belongings are in the way. Unfortunately, you will not be getting your money’s worth and will not have a full understanding of all the components in the house that you wish to buy. |
For example, water heaters are often found in utility closets and garages in the southwest. Pictured right, somewhere under all of that stuff, is an electric water heater. What will be reported during the home inspection is that the armor flex restraining clamp is damaged and the wires are exposed, the hot and cold pipes are not visible, the cold water valve is not accessible, the temperature relief valve and pipe are not visible. If this was a gas heater it would be a fire hazard along with other complications such as inadequate combustion air and the possibility of exposure to carbon monoxide. Within this same utility closet is an electrical sub-panel improperly installed (per code) for the obvious reason of accessibility. It is completely hidden from view and will not get inspected.
What can you do to get the most out of your home inspection dollars?
If you see conditions during a walk-thru of the home where components are not readily accessible for the inspector you should suggest that stored items be cleared from that area. Your agent or broker, on your behalf, should reiterate your concern on this matter. If the home is vacant make sure that the power, water and gas remain on so that all systems are operable and inspected.
If there are items on your report that were not inspected because of its accessibility, you may want to request a contingency and have the home seller pay for a re-inspection after the areas have been cleared. Or, you can request that the seller pay for a warranty if the component is not inspected.
If the home is occupied, it is expected that there will be areas of the home that are not completely accessible. But reasonable effort should be t